We are about to embark on a tour of New England followed by a journey through the major east coast cities by train. It all looks very exciting and we can't wait to get started. All we need now are plenty of sunny days and trees full of colourful leaves.
Monday 31 October 2016
1. We ought to be packing...October 2016
Sunday 30 October 2016
2. Across the pond
Our flight to Boston, Massachusetts with Norwegian Airlines was simple and felt relatively short, then as Uber novices we were pleased with our first trip which was all very straightforward (well done Steve); things were starting well. We awoke still on UK time so after a ludicrously early breakfast - my first blueberry pancakes of the tour (yum!) - we had plenty of time to stroll round our harbour with a view of downtown Boston.
It was a surprise to have a positive experience with a hire car company when we were upgraded to a Jeep 4x4 for our travels.
Saturday 29 October 2016
3. Three states in one day
We were heading north up the east coast through Massachusetts, New Hampshire and on into Maine. The weather was superb, the leaves on the trees were just starting to colour beautifully and each state visitor centre was happy to give out useful road maps which we needed to navigate our route.
Olgonquit was our first stop, a small attractive town with a huge beach for us to stretch our legs. Lunch was taken at Kennebunkport, a busy town on the tourist trail but understandably so with its typical New England wooden houses and wonderful location. Even George and Barbara Bush have a property here. The signage was comprehensive, albeit a little confusing, and it seems to be a place for romantics judging by the number of padlocks on the bridge.
The driving was relaxing and the scenery delightful as we arrived in Freeport, Maine, for our overnight stopover. Freeport is basically an outlet shopping town built up around a famous old store - LLBean - which we had read about in our guide book. As the founder's name was Leon Leonwood Bean we felt we had to pay a visit and since the store opens 24/7 365 days a year a late night visit after dinner suited us perfectly.
Friday 28 October 2016
4. Freeport to Mount Desert Island
Maine seems very much like Canada to Steve and I oodles of trees, fewer people and a real sense of space. Donald Trump placards are common since the state has a Republican stronghold but we haven't got caught up with election fever yet. Maine is famous for its forests, moose, lobsters and blueberries and we were hoping to see and eat plenty!
We still hadn't seen a cloud yet on our tour as we began the day with an enormous blue sky heading north up Highway 1. First stop Wiscasset which claims to be the prettiest town in Maine and after a half hour stroll round the fine coloured wooden houses, all with pristine gardens, the cute white church and riverside old railway we thought they had a point. We lunched at Camden, a lovely bustling town on the coast where we picnicked in a quiet park overlooking the bay in the warm sun; blissful.
Emerging from a densely wooded section of our afternoon route we rounded a bend to be met with this eye catching bridge with a vista (pronounced veesta here) lay-by, we even got to drive over it. I had done most of the driving today as Steve was full of a cold and sore throat but it was all most relaxing.
We were now on Mount Desert Island, a good proportion of which is the Acadia National Park (celebrating its centennial year in 2016), and staying here for four nights. To avoid the one mile walk into the town tonight we opted to eat at the steakhouse next door. We met a nice Yorkshire couple on our way through the hotel lobby and they joined us for a sociable dinner and travel stories exchange.
Thursday 27 October 2016
5. Bar Harbour, Mount Desert Island
Explore the town of Bar Harbour where we were residing was our remit for today, after all if it was good enough for the Vanderbilts and friends it was good enough for us. Most of the luxury properties of the day have been converted to hotels and inns. The town is so named as it is a harbour with a tidal sand bar and fortunately for us the tide was right out so we could cross the bar and climb to the summit of Bar Island to enjoy the views back across the water. It was buzzing with tourists in the centre of town but this is a lovely place with a proper village green and lots of traditional features, which we discovered on our historic walking trail. In addition to the tour boats, schooners and fishing boats there was always a cruise ship moored just offshore. However, to escape the crowds all we had to do was walk a little way along the shore path which was a quiet picnic spot too.
We were in the heart of lobster land and so chose tonight to have our 'vacation' lobster supper. With all of the accoutrements to hand it was good fun and very tasty.
We were in the heart of lobster land and so chose tonight to have our 'vacation' lobster supper. With all of the accoutrements to hand it was good fun and very tasty.
Wednesday 26 October 2016
6. Arcadia National Park
The cloudless sky inevitably had to end and so we endured our first rainy day. We opted to take the National Park tourist loop drive which wended its way down the coast with stop offs for some of the highlights. There was a super one hour stroll round Great Head and Sand Beach but we soon tired of busy car parks and tourists so went off and explored quieter parts of the island. We found some tasty lobster rolls for lunch - another 'must try' local dish for these parts. I did learn something new too when we drove along Somes Sound, that a fiard is a small fjord with much less steep sides.
Tuesday 25 October 2016
7. Mount Cadillac
The Arcadia National Park runs a terrific free bus service (once you have purchased you NP pass) so that you can leave your car and access the different trails etc and not always have to walk a circular route. The blue sky and sunshine were back but there was a strong wind blowing so we dressed accordingly and got off the bus at the trail head for the North Ridge path, the shorter but steeper ascent of Mount Cadillac. The trek was fabulous as it was mostly walking up huge slabs of rock with scenic viewpoints all around. There were lots of official cairns regularly placed so even we couldn't get lost. After a great hike up we set off down on the longer, gently sloping South Ridge, with equally gorgeous views of the rocky path to follow and the amazing Maine coastline. Definitely my favourite day so far.
Monday 24 October 2016
8. Forest Route to New Hampshire
After six nights in the US I still wake up at about 5 am every day, which seems a bit silly and I hope will end soon. Sadly it was time to leave Mount Desert Island, the coast and Maine behind us and head west inland to the White Mountains of New Hampshire. In typical fall weather - a cold crisp blue morning - the leaves entertained us with their colour along quiet forested roads; Steve had planned a brilliant route. Incidentally it is the sugar content in the leaves which adds to the depth of colour and the sugar maples were blazing red everywhere.
Steve has now passed his sore throat over to me and spending half a day in a car and attempting not to speak much (it hurt) was very frustrating.
We basically drove through beautiful forests the whole journey, passing through an occasional settlement and seeing huge logging lorries. As we left Maine and entered New Hampshire and the White Mountains National Forest the landscape altered and mountains were popping up on all sides. This is a ski region in winter and an outdoor haven in the summer and autumn. All lovely, lovely, lovely.
Steve has now passed his sore throat over to me and spending half a day in a car and attempting not to speak much (it hurt) was very frustrating.
We basically drove through beautiful forests the whole journey, passing through an occasional settlement and seeing huge logging lorries. As we left Maine and entered New Hampshire and the White Mountains National Forest the landscape altered and mountains were popping up on all sides. This is a ski region in winter and an outdoor haven in the summer and autumn. All lovely, lovely, lovely.
Sunday 23 October 2016
9. Jackson and Mount Washington, NH
Jackson is a picturesque little place with several golf courses and mountains and valleys all around. It also has a covered bridge which tourists all stop and photograph. Our Eagle Mountain House is listed as an historic hotel and is a large wooden building with 125 rooms and a large wooden lobby with fires and leather chesterfield sofas. It was nice taking afternoon tea on the veranda rocking chairs with mountain vistas although we weren't alone for long once a coach party arrived.
Mount Washington is the highest peak on the US east coast and on the Appalachian Trail, the latter running all the way from Maine down to Georgia. It has also recorded the highest wind speed in the world at 233 mph. Unfortunately we weren't climbing up it today but as a treat for Steve we were taking the train as Mt Washington has the oldest cog railway in the world and also the oldest tourist attraction in the USA. Originally powered by a steam engine today we had a cleaner bio-diesel engine and a comfortable carriage. It took 45 minutes to get to the summit, travelling at 5mph with some of the gradients as steep as 37%, hence the need for the cog safety system. It was chilly and windy at the top but the 360° views were fabulous and on such a clear day we could see 5 states and across to Quebec province.
We took a lake stroll and a river trail in the afternoon, and with black bear warning signs it added to the enjoyment; alas no bears or beavers but a solid dam. As the sun dipped behind the mountains we journeyed upstream from our hotel for a half hour dusk moose watch. Again, we saw nothing but the light soon went and it was fun frightening each other!
Having been unimpressed with the service in our hotel dining room last night we ate out in a Jackson restaurant tonight where we had an interesting, intelligent and enlightening conversation with a New Jersey couple on the adjoining table learning about American politics and the forthcoming, and dreaded, election amongst other things.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)